Anti-aging creams are predominantly moisturiser-based cosmeceutical skin care products
marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by reducing,
masking or preventing signs of skin aging.
These signs are laxity
(sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and
photoaging, which includes erythema (redness), dyspigmentation (brown
discolorations), solar elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths), and
poor texture. Anti-aging creams may
also focus on specific causes of skin aging, such as exposure to the sun.
Despite great demand,
many anti-aging products and treatments have not been proven to give lasting or
major positive effects. One study found that the best performing creams reduced
wrinkles by less than % over weeks,
which is not noticeable to the human eye. Another study found that
cheap moisturisers were as effective as high-priced anti-wrinkle creams. However, recent studies
at Manchester
University showed
that some ingredients have an effect.
Traditionally,
anti-aging creams have been marketed towards women, but products specifically
targeting men are increasingly common.
Ingredients
Anti-aging creams may
include conventional moisturising ingredients. They also usually contain
specific anti-aging ingredients, such as:
·
Retinol (for instance, in the
form of retinyl palmitate). In various
formulations it has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores.
·
Epidermal
growth factor, to stimulate cell renewal and collagen production in the skin,
and strengthen elasticity and structure. The discovery of epidermal growth factor
won Dr. Stanley
Cohenand Rita
Levi-Montalcini a
Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine in . In
various research epidermal growth factor has been shown to reduce fine lines,
wrinkles and sagging. It also has healing
(wounds and burns) and anti-inflammatory properties when applied to skin.
·
Alpha hydroxy
acids (AHAs)
and beta hydroxy acids or other chemical peels. These help to dissolve the
intracellular "glue" that holds dead cells together on the skin. The
use of this type of product on a daily basis gradually enhances the exfoliation of the epidermis. This exposes newer skin cells
and can help improve appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin, causing redness
and flaking.
·
Argireline (also known as acetyl
hexapeptide- ). This peptide relaxes facial muscles to prevent wrinkles and
fine lines from forming.
·
Anti-oxidants are substances that may
protect cells from the damage caused by unstable molecules known as free radicals.
·
Sunscreens provide a high level of UVA protection
against the effects of UVA radiation, such as wrinkles.
·
Vitamin C is supposedly one of the
most effective and commonly included ingredients in wrinkle creams. It is
also thought to help the healing process.
The effects of these
ingredients depends on their concentration and mode of application. Many skin
care companies recommend using a treatment programme which may combine these
ingredients. For example, AHAs can make the skin more vulnerable to damage from
the sun, so the increased use of sunscreens is often recommended.
Alternative approaches
Traditional moisturisers or sunscreens may provide many
of the same benefits as some anti-aging creams.
Facial toning, either by hand, hands-free
devices or through electrostimulation of the facial muscles,
is thought by some to reduce wrinkles.
Mechanical exfoliation
is an alternative to chemical peels using ingredients such as crushed apricot
kernals, salt, sponges or brushes.
Advertising sometimes
presents anti-aging creams as an alternative to plastic surgery and botox injections,
which may be more costly and invasive treatments.
Anti-aging and wrinkle
creams are criticised by some for being expensive, unnatural, and not
clinically proven to work
